Waterless Waterfall Way

It has been a while since my last post from the Warrumbungles and it has been even longer since meaningful rain has fallen in the New South Wales hinterland (the mountains and hills inland from the coast) - hence the title of the post!

Before I proceed, a little bit of Australian geography is necessary to help set the scene:

Australia’s Great Dividing Range is a mountain range that runs parallel to almost the entire length of the continent’s eastern seaboard.  This ‘spine’ of mountains pretty much separates the coastal region from the interior and most of Australia’s population chooses to live between these ranges and the coast.  Apart from the great weather typically experienced along this coastal strip, the key reason for the higher population density is an abundance of the water necessary to support this many people.  The ranges intercept the moisture laden clouds that roll inland from the Pacific Ocean, forcing them to rise.  As they rise, they cool and subsequently drop their moisture as rain on the coastal side of mountains which makes it way back to the sea via numerous rivers and creeks.  Here endeth the lesson - now back to the story...

We had decided to head towards the mid-north NSW coastline from the interior via Tamworth (the Country Music Capital of Australia), and a driving route known as ‘The Waterfall Way’.

'Straw Hat Heather' and her Golden Guitar in Tamworth - Yeee-har!

With Heather having released her inner hillbilly in Tamworth (I am glad to report that she has now got that out of her system), we were excited to set-off down the Waterfall Way to see some of what the national parks brochure was spruiking.  It says:

“Explore the parks along the Great Escarpment and the Coastal Ranges on the eastern edge of the New England Tableland.  Watch cascading streams and waterfalls still shaping this dramatic mountainous landscape, as you travel along the Waterfall Way.”

First stop along the route was a place called Dangar Falls.  The gorges and canyons were indeed spectacular, however, the water was not there to fall.  We said to each other, “It must be magnificent after it has rained!”

Next was Wollomombi Falls.  Again, breathtaking cliff lines and plunging ravines cut by the forces of water but no water was at work when we were there.  We said to each other, “It must be magnificent after it has rained!”

A couple more kilometres down the road and we were at Chandler Falls.  For an accurate description of this beauty, see paragraph above.  Also, and you probably know the drill by now; we said to each other:  “It must be magnificent after it has rained!”

Given our lack of success viewing waterfalls thus far we decided that as our campsite for the night was quite close to a lookout from which you could see all the way across the foothills of the plateau and out to the coast some 60 km away, next morning we would get up, make ourselves a coffee and head to the lookout in time to watch the sunrise upon a brand new day.  While the falls may not have had any water falling over them we had more confidence that the sun would come up tomorrow and at least we could watch the sun rise!  As sure as day follows night, the sun did indeed rise - and right on schedule too!

Heather bathes in the orange glow of sunrise on a cold morning

Last of the listed major waterfalls along the route was Ebor Falls.  Our previous recent experience had us expecting more of the truly spectacular scenery (it really was spectacular), but no water.  Imagine our surprise when we arrived at the lookout and first heard and then actually saw water!  Not much but water falling over the falls nonetheless!  Below is a photo of Ebor Falls just to prove that you really can see water-falling along this route.

Ebor Falls - the only falls along the Waterfall Way to have water during our visit!

With the sun rising as it should and water falling once more we were satisfied that the normal order of things had been restored so it was time for WTF? - Where are The Farrows?, to move on.  Next up, we take in some of what the mid-north and northern NSW coastline has to offer.