Tuesday, 20 March 2018

Eyre Peninsula Coastline - Part 1: Eastern Eyre Peninsula

Having decided to take some extended time away from work we were eager to hit the road and get some ‘Grey Nomad Training’ kilometres under our belts.  After some perusal of maps, tourist information and consideration of the expected stinking hot mid-summer weather conditions we decided that South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula coastline and the ‘Seafood Frontier Route’ was to be where we would spend the month of February.

Eyre Peninsula's 'Seafood Frontier' Route

We set off travelling north from Adelaide with the aid of a stiff southerly breeze – very good news when towing a caravan that is as aerodynamic as a barn wall.  Having a tailwind pushing against the back of the van was like having a sail unfurled which assisted the engine in moving us along for 300km until we reached Port Augusta and turned southwards.  From that point onwards the last 80km into Whyalla (and the first stop of our trip), was much harder work for the engine as we were now ‘dragging the barn’ straight into the teeth of the wind.

Whyalla is where I did the first 4 of my 5 years of university studies.  Since graduating almost 30 years ago I had not been back to Whyalla so it was nice to stop and have a look after all of these years.  Like most places you revisit after some time away, while there have definitely been some changes over the years everything still appears pretty much the same as I remembered it.

HMAS Whyalla - the first ship built at the Whyalla shipyard in 1940/41
After two nights in what was a very windy Whyalla we broke camp and travelled 150km to Port Gibbon which is located about 20km south of Cowell.  It was here that we were really fortunate to come across a pair of Sea Lions resting on the beach at Point Gibbon.  These very large creatures allowed us to get quite close and so long as we stayed a distance away that they were comfortable with we could have watched them from there all day.  It was an unexpected but great encounter with nature. 

Sea Lion encounter at Point Gibbon

Heather has also produced a video of our Sea Lion encounter which can be viewed on her YouTube channel via the link below (PS: this Sea Lion video is just one of many videos capturing the sights and sounds of our journey.  Take a look at a couple and click on 'Subscribe' if you like what you have seen.  Becoming a subscriber to Heather's channel will simply result in you being notified whenever she posts a new video - it won't result in you receiving any advertising or promotional 'spam' from anyone else.)

Next overnight stop was Lipson Cove.  A beautiful beach and bay complete with seabird colony on a nearby offshore island which we were able to wade to at low tide.  Also present while we were there was a pod of 7 dolphins.  The dolphins stayed close to shore near our camp for most of the day – it was very nice just to look out at the water periodically and see them still slowly cruising the beach.
Following Lipson Cove was a stay in Port Lincoln located near the bottom (southern tip) of the Eyre Peninsula.    We spent 3 nights using Pt. Lincoln as our base where, after 6 days of very blustery conditions, some calm and hot weather finally arrived!

Beautiful view from our site at Pt. Lincoln Foreshore Caravan Park

We explored the town itself including its foreshore and commercial fishing marina.  Pt. Lincoln is home to a large seafood fishing fleet where they catch and process tuna, abalone, prawns, and crayfish/southern rock lobster.
Some of the Pt. Lincoln fishing fleet in the marina

One of the highlights of the trip was a day trip from our Pt. Lincoln caravan park to Whalers Way.  This former whaling station is where the coastline along the relatively sheltered and shallow waters of Spencer Gulf ends and exposure to the full power of the Southern Ocean begins.

Cliffs and the Southern Ocean at Whalers Way

The rugged coastal scenery and deserted beaches we saw at Whalers Way was just a taste of what of the western Eyre Peninsula coastline was to offer.

Stayed tuned for WTF? – Where are The Farrows? and Eyre Peninsula Coastline – Part 2.

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